Story Ideas

STORY IDEA: Specialty Cheese Retailers Focus on Wisconsin

SUBJECT: As Wisconsin’s cheesemakers continue to innovate, grow and produce more than 600 varieties, types and styles of specialty cheeses, retail cheese shops which once catered to an international import market are now responding by carrying more Wisconsin artisan cheeses than ever before. Dozens of specialty cheese shops have sprung up around the state. And at least six boutique cheese stores have opened their doors in the last three years, all with the specific goal of highlighting Wisconsin cheeses and celebrating its artisan cheesemakers. Examples include:

Fromagination: One of the state’s newest artisan cheese shops is Fromagination, located on the downtown Capitol Square in Madison at 12 South Carroll Street. Owner Ken Monteleone, who doubled as an avid specialty food connoisseur for the 15 years he worked as an international shoe buyer, left the corporate world a year ago to begin researching an artisan cheese store in Madison. Fromagination successfully opened in September 2007 and exclusively carried about 60 select Wisconsin artisan cheeses for the first full month it was open. Monteleone then opened his cheese cases to feature another 35 cheeses from around the United States and world.

QUOTE: "Wisconsin is becoming a mecca for great artisan and farmhouse cheeses," Monteleone says. "We’re proud to offer a carefully selected assortment representing the diversity in Wisconsin artisanal cheeses."

Nala’s Fromagerie: Alan Trick, owner of Nala’s Fromagerie in Green Bay, opened a specialty cheese store in 2004, carrying 65 cheeses. Today, he carries nearly triple that number, with a huge growth in the Wisconsin artisan cheese category. In fact, it’s not uncommon for a Wisconsin cheesemaker to walk into his shop with a new, original cheese he or she has created and ask for Trick’s opinion of how to market it.

QUOTE: "I’ve seen a significant number of new artisans starting up in Wisconsin, all crafting some pretty innovative cheeses," Trick says. "Those are the kinds of cheeses we want to carry—I’m not interested in offering any product that a consumer can find in their local grocery store."

QUOTE: "We have a growing clientele asking specifically for Wisconsin cheeses," Trick says. "People are steadily becoming more aware of what we have to offer right here. More and more customers are interested in exclusively serving Wisconsin cheeses, and I only expect that to grow."

Larry’s Market: Steve Ehlers, owner of Larry’s Market in Brown Deer, Wisconsin, can attest to that growth. He first started carrying specially cheeses in 1971, importing French Brie, Camembert and a few select others. Today he carries 200 cheeses—75 from Wisconsin.

QUOTE: "I think Wisconsin artisan cheese was ceremoniously put on the map in 2001 when Mike Gingrich won Best of Show at the American Cheese Society for his Pleasant Ridge Reserve," Ehlers said. "I don’t think a lot of people realize it, but that was a huge deal. That award gave credibility to the state’s artisan cheese industry."

Not only are Wisconsin specialty cheese stores carrying cheeses not found anywhere else, but almost all are following a national trend to offer specialty foods that pair with specific cheeses. Monteleone markets his store as artisanal cheeses and perfect companions and carries a full line of charcuterie, breads, olives, herbs and specialty foods that pair well with cheeses. A unique set of bins containing select wines and beers in the back of the store are even numbered to pair with each individual cheese in the cheese case.

Nala’s Fromagerie focuses on cheese accompaniments as well, flying in artisan breads from Paris and San Francisco weekly. Nala’s also boasts the largest olive bar in the area to serve a savvier consumer base—a consumer base that is increasingly requesting cheese from America’s Dairyland.